THE SCIENCE OF THE SHADES
BY LAYNE REY PHOTOS BY HENRY DAY
In 2017, inclusivity in the makeup industry began to take priority following the release of Fenty Beauty’s 40 foundation shades and 50 concealer shades, which was record-breaking at the time. Different makeup brands have since begun launching their own inclusive lines, but is it really possible to create a foundation line that will swatch perfectly on any skin color?
Foundation mixing pigments are colored foundations that mix with a typical foundation in order to achieve the perfect color match. Popularized by L.A. Girl, its line of pigments comes in four colors: white, yellow, orange, and blue. Color theory, or the study of how colors work together, has shown that these colors are effective in adjusting foundation shades to better fit any individual’s skin tone.
The white pigment operates as assumed — it lightens the foundation. If the foundation is simply too dark, adding white pigment will help. Also, foundation can be costly, and being able to lighten up any preferred foundation for the colder months is not only inclusive but resourceful. At $10 per color, this is an affordable solution to a common problem faced in the winter.
If a more golden undertone is needed in order to match a skin tone, adding the yellow pigment is necessary. Foundation can have too much of a pink or olive undertone, which makes the skin look dull. In order to brighten up the makeup base, finding the correct amount of yellow pigment to add can create a completely new foundation that better fits the skin tone.
The orange pigment functions in opposition to the white pigment. If a warmer undertone is needed, especially for medium and dark shades of foundation, adding orange pigment is key. This functions similarly to the trend of bronzing drops, which simultaneously darkens and adds warmth to any moisturizer or foundation. Incorporating a warmer undertone can be helpful in the hotter months, as tans may develop that change the desired shade of foundation.
Blue, in any sense, is used as a neutralizing color. Adding the blue pigment to foundation cancels out any unwanted warmth or orange coloring. Many foundation lines leave customers stuck between two shades, as one is too light and one looks too orange. This can directly solve that problem and allow for the line to unknowingly expand to additional skin tones.
Though L.A. Girl sells a foundation with the same base formula as the pigments to ensure consistency, these pigments can be used with any foundation. In fact, they can be extremely useful for traveling or production makeup artists, as it is hard to guess the shade for each individual. This way, incorrect shades can be adjusted according to color theory with the pigments.
The science behind color theory being implemented in the beauty industry to create a more inclusive environment speaks to progress made in the makeup industry and the potential society has to make every space more inclusive.
