PERIOD COSTUMES DONE RIGHT
BY LAUREN STIDHAM ILLUSTRATION BY KENDALL WIFF
Period Pieces have played a critical role in Hollywood over the years, often dramatizing historical narratives to meet box-office standards and attract audience viewership. While narrative elements are skewed and stretched, it leaves us to wonder if visual elements follow this same exaggeration. Looking closely at costume design in various period pieces in the film industry, we can determine which films nailed their historic wardrobes and which chose allure over authenticity.
The glamour of period piece garments aren’t purely for theatrical effect, many traditional outfits—such as regency attire—are as ostentatious as they look on screen. The film “Elizabeth” (2007), starring Cate Blanchett won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design for its accuracy to portraits of Queen Elizabeth I’s garments. In her coronation portrait specifically, she is draped in a luxurious yellow gown, accessorized with furs, jewels, an orb, a sceptre, and a dazzling crown. Silks, jewels, furs, and ostentatious silhouettes were all historically accurate depictions of royal clothing in the Elizabthean era and on.
Looking at the Regency era in England, we see more examples of the wealthy’s wardrobes being highly accurate to historical depictions. The film “Emma” (2020), starring Anya Taylor-Joy, has been praised by experts for their authentic frills and lace true to that era. The costume designers spent time studying original Regency era clothing from British archives, paying close attention to not only the elaborate gowns but the details in the undergarments, headwear, lace, and ribbon accessories. They replicated common garments worn by the wealthy in England at this time and specific pieces directly from the British archive. One of Emma’s morning dresses was even a direct replica of a dress displayed in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
Looking outside of European period pieces, in “Memoirs of a Geisha” (2005), actress Zhang Ziyi portrays a Geisha during the Second World War. Her dress contains many historically accurate silhouettes and designs akin to Kimono’s during this time. While they took a few liberties with the coloring of the fabric, the costume designers made sure to reference archived Kimonos from the World War II era and experts in the industry. The designer perfected the rich silk, dramatic silhouettes, and cultural patterns worn by Geishas in this era.
In “Les Misérables” (2012), we see accurate common folk attire. The costume designers referenced clothing from the French Revolution while crafting the wardrobe for this film. Critics praise this film as one with heavy resemblance to true fashion in this era. The outfits in the film portrayed the stark wealth gap that plagued the country at the time. The rich are seen in opulent outfits with richly colored fabric and expensive accessories, contrasting the drab, poor-fitted, and shabby clothing often worn by the poor. While aspects such as hairstyles and accessories worn in the film took liberties outside of accurate period fashion, the film overall provides a visually intricate and seemingly accurate depiction of French Revolution attire.
The flapper style seen in media representation of the 1920’s is a more recent version of period fashion in films. “The Great Gatsby” (2013), starring Leonardo DiCaprio, won an Oscar for costume design. Although the film has highly stylized editing and set design, the flapper fashion displayed by Daisy and other characters is said to be true to looks worn by real flappers in the ‘20s.
Costume designer Catherine Martin used archival pieces and visual references of flapper fashion worn by the ladies of the ‘20s in her research. Martin paid close attention to make sure she perfected the variety of silhouettes, from halter, to one-shoulder, to harem pants, and the glamorous beading, feathers, caps, and embroidery that elevated the looks.
The film industry holds a variety of period piece fashion, but the looks that make the viewer feel as if they have stepped into the era they are watching, is no easy task. Meticulous research and archival pieces coincide to bring these costume designs to life and successful designers bring a sense of life back to stories of the past.
