THE EVOLUTION OF CAMOUFLAGE IN FASHION
BY ALEX HOPKINS PHOTOS BY PROVIDED
Camouflage trends have evolved and repeated through the decades, reflecting the ever-shifting but cyclical nature of fashion trends. From combat to couture, camouflage has become a symbol of rebellion, self-expression, and style.
Battlefields were once covered by the bright colors of opposing armies. However, soldiers no longer sport red coats or bright blue uniforms, instead, these flashy colors are saved for ceremonial events and soldiers wear camouflage.
As technology evolved, soldiers faced a new danger: the camera. Camouflage was first developed during World War I as a way for soldiers to stay hidden from bird’s eye views possible with cameras.
The pattern was first created by French artist Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola in 1914. Scévola’s goal was purely functional — to protect soldiers by making them less visible on the field — but his work soon caught the imaginations of other artists around the world.
Soon artists in every country and capital were creating unique camouflage patterns, launching a trend that continues to this day. Elsa Schiaparelli’s Spring 1940 collection first introduced camo into the civilian fashion industry. Her work took a feminine spin on a typically masculine style.
Vogue magazine also helped introduce camouflage into the world of fashion, first publishing an article in 1943 to explain the patterns' history and evolution. The same year, Life Magazine published a feature on showgirl Chili Williams, wearing camouflage prints.
Though the pattern had yet to infiltrate the mainstream consciousness, as the style and trend evolved, camouflage clothing became associated with rebellion, self-expression, and non-conformity. Counterculture movements embraced camouflage clothing as a statement against the “norm.” In 1971, Vogue released a collage of women wearing tactical gear previously reserved for soldiers, popularizing the pattern as an expression of defiance.
In the 1980s, Brooklyn hip-hop artists and fans adopted the camouflage trend and introduced it into streetwear culture. Artists Run-DMC and LL Cool J incorporated the fashion into their styles, praising its utility, durability, and affordability.
The camo trend officially entered the mainstream eye in the 1980s when celebrities like Micheal Jackson and Madonna began to sport the pattern on red carpets and in paparazzi photoshoots. Andy Warhol’s 1987 Camouflage Series is often credited as a key factor in the camouflage surge by camo enthusiasts and fashion experts alike. His work elevated the pattern from simple greens and browns to artistic statements full of color and life.
Eventually, the camouflage evolved into a staple of early 2000s grunge fashion — reminiscent of the counterculture identity that first introduced the pattern into popularity. Today, camouflage pieces are styled similarly to the early 2000s, with many reaching for camo pants as a statement piece.
The Harris-Walz campaign even joined the re-emergence during its 2024 presidential campaign, releasing an embroidered camouflage baseball cap. This piece was eerily similar to singer Chappell Roan’s merchandise, another artist who has often used camo in their fashion.
Though camouflage has not been as popular as it once was in the past couple of decades, it can be argued that the pattern is re-emerging into mainstream fashion. Whether the pattern is returning is uncertain, but one thing is clear: camouflage trends continue to pop up through the decades, reflecting the ever-changing, cyclical nature of fashion trends.
